While on a hiking adventure at Tierra Patagonia Lodge in Torres del Paine National Park, Chile
The moments before the sun rises above the horizon are sometimes the most magical, especially in a place like Patagonia that is known for magical light. I took this image from right behind the lodge looking at the Cordillera from across Sarmiento Lake.
And if you stay at the Tierra Patagonia lodge, this is the view from your room (you can watch a sunrise like this while still tucked snuggly in your bed). But I don't like being indoors when nature is putting on a show. I was warned that going out in the dark by yourself was not a terribly smart idea, as puma tend to hunt in that area at night. But oh the things we do to get the shot, right?
It was a beautiful thing to watch the mountains slowly emerge from the darkness and attain this incredible orange-red glow. And with that, my Patagonian Instagram takeover is done. I hope you've enjoyed these images from one of my favorite places in the world. It goes without saying, but I highly suggest you visit this amazing National Park. And when you do, definitely stay at the Tierra Patagonia.
While on a hiking adventure at Tierra Patagonia Lodge in Torres del Paine National Park, Chile
1-The View
2-Guanaco
Guanacos (Lama guanicoe) are native animals of the South American mountainous regions. They are a ubiquitous sight in Patagonia, often seen perched against the mountain backdrop on the lookout for predators. A cousin to the llama, vicuña, and the alpaca, guanacos can be heard bleating warning calls to the herd if a puma or other predator is near. Watching their behavior is quite interesting...there's always a dominant male whose job it is to be the sentry lookout. He is usually stationed on high ground not far from the herd. And if a predator does come, he will usually run at the back of the group in order to protect his herd, especially the young guanaco (called chulengos). You can't come to Patagonia without seeing these interesting animals .
3-Grey Glacier
Just west of the Cordillera del Paine lies the impressive Grey Glacier. Part of the Southern Patagonian Icefield, icebergs from this glacier empty into the lake by the same name (Lago Grey). There are a few ways to explore the glacier and icebergs...you can choose to hike along the shores of Lago Grey, or take a boat ride for up close views of the terminus of the glacier. On my last visit to Torres del Paine (many years ago), I did the boat ride in front of the glacier. So I decided to explore the western shore of the lake. I happened to catch my awesome guide Pelin (@PelinAsfuroglu) taking photos in front of the icebergs (she's a talented photographer). When we first arrived at the lake, it was sunny and the lake was as calm as glass. Within 20 minutes, the clouds rolled in, the wind picked up, and the rain started. Such is the crazy weather in Patagonia !
4-Tierra
When you first approach the Tierra Patagonia lodge, it looks a bit like a mirage. The design is so in uniform with the environment that it is hard to even tell there is a lodge there. I shot this warm image at sunrise from the back of the hotel. I was out early to capture the mountains across from Lake Sarmiento, which is the view from the back of the hotel (I will share that pic soon). However, I couldn't help but snap a photo of the lodge as well. It is beautifully crafted inside and out, with furnishings and textiles from local Chilean craftspeople made using natural materials from the region. After a long day's hike in the park, there is no better way to unwind than with a nice glass of Chilean red wine in this beautiful lodge. For me, staying here was half the experience of visiting this incredible national park .
5-The Pinnacles
Not all of the best hikes in the region happen within the park boundaries. This was a world-class hike we did called the Pinnacles, which traces the top edge of a tall rock outcrop. Because it is on a private estancia, and the only ones with access were the guests at our lodge, we were alone on the trail. It was magical. This is where we saw Andean condor flying right next to us. We also saw an eagle, many caracara, sheep, rheas, and the remains of a lot of puma kills (a family of puma live at the base of this outcrop). I had asked our guide Daniel (pictured here) to stand close to the edge so I could get this shot, something I later learned was very hard for him due to his fear of heights. It is indeed a long drop down to the bottom. Daniel has an incredible passion for the region..he is a wealth of knowledge on all aspects of the park. Plus, he's just a really cool guy who is apparently willing to risk life and limb for some dumb photographer .
6-Samuel
If you travel to Patagonia, no doubt you will come across some Gauchos (cowboys of the region), perhaps riding at full gallop across the pampas with 20 or 30 of their dogs sprinting behind them to keep up. You may even get to go on a horseback ride with one, like I did. Gauchos work on the vast estancias (ranches) and are incredible horseman. Besides taking silly tourists (like me) on rides, gauchos also do a lot of the work on the estancias (cattle drives, taking care of the horses, etc). This is Samuel. Like many gauchos, Samuel came to this popular tourist area looking for work to support his wife and children at home, whom he hardly ever sees. The work is much more plentiful where tourists spend big dollars. I went on a beautiful ride with Samuel and when we came upon this ridge I asked him to stop so I could take this photo. I still think this is one of my favorite photos of my time in the region .
7-Sunset Layers
It's true that Patagonia can be a very cold and unforgiving environment. I'd hate to be lost and exposed to the elements in this park...the outcome wouldn't be good. But as harsh and extreme as it can be, it can be equally beautiful and mesmerizing. I shot this on my way into the park after the long drive from Punta Arenas (the gateway to this region). It was a tiring day, after a long flight and drive, and we entered the park just as the sun had dipped over the horizon, leaving this magical yellow glow to the world. My eye was drawn to not only the soft colors, but also to the many layers extending into the horizon. I find that the places with the greatest extremes in nature and weather usually coincide with the greatest possibilities of beauty (and great photography). That's one of the many reasons I like to travel not only very often, but also very far .
8-Reflections
It's not often that the wind is calm in Patagonia. Torres del Paine is notorious for its strong winds that have been know to reach 150 kph and to knock hikers off their feet! Trees are forever shaped in the direction of the wind. The wind is caused when warm air from the equator meets cold air traveling north from Antarctica. The situation is compounded by the fact that Patagonia is almost at the southern tip of the continent, leaving it at the mercy of both the Pacific and Atlantic ocean breezes as well. All this makes for a very windy, crazy weather pattern that can see four seasons in the same day. So when you get a calm morning, head for one of the many lakes to photograph the beautiful reflections! Shot with the Pentax 645Z camera and the 28-45 f/4.5 ED AW Lens (a perfect combo for capturing the beauty of this park)
9-The Cordillera
Torres del Paine is a National Park in Southern Chilean Patagonia that encompasses some of the most spectacular mountains, glaciers, lakes, and rivers in the world. Designated a World Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 1978, The Cordillera del Paine is the centerpiece of the National Park....the ever-present rock that rises up dramatically from the Patagonian Steppe and dominates the skyline. When hiking on the world-class trails in the park, it is your guide...the compass by which you navigate. Can you imagine a better view when hiking ?
10-Where Condors Soar
Two condors soar above the granite spires, scavenging for the daily meal. Riding the drafts of the strong Patagonian winds, the Andean Condor glides to amazing heights, always on the lookout for dead things on which to feed. It's spring in the Torres del Paine National Park, and there's still snow in the mountains. Most visitors will wait until high season (December through February) to visit the park, but the shoulder seasons (October and March) offer some of the best crowd-free hikes. I promised better views of the three "horns" of Paine, but I bet you weren't expecting the added bonus of a cloud that looks like a giant spaceship! This place is indeed otherworldly beautiful. Shot with a Canon 5D Mark III and the Canon 100-400 L IS II lens
11-Gateways to the Park
The land surrounding the Torres del Paine National Park is made up of private estancias (ranches), often separated by gates such as these. Although very elusive, puma can be seen not only in the park, but also all along the private estancias surrounding the park. It is not uncommon to see two or three sheep skin hanging from the fence next to the estancia entrances...which is basically a warning from one ranch to the next that a Puma has made a kill in the area recently and to watch your flock closely. In the distance you can see the three glacially eroded granite peaks of the Paine Massif from which the Torres del Paine park gets its name. I'll share more photos of these beautiful peaks later, so stay tuned.
Soure
